The White Rim: A Mountain Biking Classic

Adventurous mountain bikers of the world have the Cold War to thank for Utah’s White Rim. The trail was constructed in the ‘50s by the Atomic Energy Commission. It was originally used by miners prospecting for uranium for use in nuclear weapons.

These days, the area is known as the Island in the Sky district of Canyonlands National Park. The road gets its name from the white-capped sedimentary rock that stands in contrast to the predominantly red sandstone typical of the area.

The White Rim

This 100-mile loop snakes through some of Moab’s most dramatic and spectacularly stunning terrain. “Breathtaking” is overused in travel writing, and here in this desert paradise, the word fails to describe the beauty of the area. First timers are left speechless, and written words fail to capture its majesty, it truly has to be seen.

Riders are treated to an awe-inspiring landscape with everything from scarlet-red mesas and cathedral-like buttes, to towering sandstone cliffs. There are also multiple layers of deep canyons and overwhelming overlooks of not one, but two rivers: the Green and the mighty Colorado. A visit here is a trip of a lifetime.

And scenery is what this ride is about. If looking for hardcore singletrack, there’s plenty of that in elsewhere in Moab. The ride is mostly on casual doubletrack, it’s enjoyable for most people, from novice riders to families. This is not to say it’s easy per se, there are steep downhills, loose rocks, long stretches of sand, and there’s almost 6,000 feet of climbing in total.

The loop is done either clockwise or counterclockwise, and it seems to be personal preference which way is “better,” though many people say clockwise is a tiny bit easier. Either way, the trail is like a “W,” with a descent in the beginning, a steep climb in the middle, and a climb to get back out. There are 10 designated campsites along the way, some more scenic or spacious than others. That may decide which way to go, based on the daily mileage desired.

Extremely strong riders can do it in one long, brutal day. If thinking about doing it in one day, consider having someone follow in a vehicle or at least stash water in a few spots the day before. Most mountain bikers do it in three days, giving a good balance of riding, rest stops, photography, or any side trips.

Other Things To Do

There are several off-the-bike side excursions that are worth the effort. Secret passages, hidden slot canyons, natural rock arches, and even ancient Puebloan ruins await riders that look up from their bars and explore off the bike. One of the highlights is the White Crack Trail. It’s a cross-country hike to a perch 1,000 feet above the confluence of the Colorado and Green rivers. It’s a sight not soon forgotten.

Pro Tip: Some people plan their entire itinerary around camping at the White Crack campsite. First off, the site has some of the best views anywhere in the area. Looking south, one can see the Needles District of Canyonlands, to the west, the Maze District. Look to the north, and revel in stellar views of Junction Butte and Grand View Point in the Island in the Sky. The late afternoon or early morning light gives photographers frame-worthy shots. White Crack only has one site, so solitude is guaranteed, but the spot is often reserved several months in advance.

Fees/Permits

Permits are required for the White Rim, either for day or for overnight use. Overnight permits allow up to 15 bicycles and three vehicles and cost $30. Day use permits are free, but only 50 permits are issued per day, 25 for bicycles and 25 for vehicles/motorcycles. In addition, all visitors must pay the park’s entrance fee of $30 for vehicles, $25 for motorcycle, or $15 for people on foot or bicycles. The entrance fee can be paid in person or online.

Reservations are taken online no more than four months, and no less than two days, before the permit start date. Competition for specific sites is fierce for trips in the spring and fall, so make a reservation at midnight mountain time, exactly four months to the day before the desired trip date.

Gear

The ride is not technical for the most part, and a hardtail is fine, though having suspension is nice for such long days in the saddle. There are no serious rock gardens, drops, or jumps so 160mm of travel is overkill. Vehicle wise, 4WD and high clearance is a must. That said, there is no need for lift kits or modifications. A stock pickup or SUV like a Toyota Tacoma or Ford Explorer is fine, but the Subaru Outback - not so much.

Safety

There is zero shade, water, or services of any kind out here. Bring a gallon of water per person, per day just for drinking. Plan on more for cooking and washing, etc. Use sunscreen and consider wearing long sleeves.

Make sure the bikes and the vehicles are in good working order, help is very far away and a tow out of here would be astronomically expensive. Fill the truck with gas and it’s not a bad idea to have an extra full gas can, just in case.

Campfires are not permitted anywhere, but stoves and grills are. Since the permit allows for three vehicles, pack one full of coolers and make it a rolling BBQ.

A trip on the White Rim should be on every rider’s bucket list for many reasons. Riding 100 miles through the desert is no small feat, but it’s the experience, the camaradiere, and the views that truly make it memorable.